So I was going to buy a plow for my truck and Mrs. TG and I talked and she said "Why not buy four wheeler that you can plow with AND use in the summer.  You would get a lot more use out of your money".  Well as any guy on her knows when the wife says something like that you ACT VERY FAST, comments like that don't come often at all!!!

So it was the perfect time of year with deer season starting and winter coming and people wanting to sell wheelers and get snowmobiles.  I started searching craigslist and ebay and finally narrowed it down to 2 wheelers.  A 2003 Ploaris Sportsman 500 Magnum for $2,700 or a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700 Twin with a plow for $3,000.  I did my research and although I would eat more gas with two cylinders they are worth far more and for resale and are tanks.  I went with the 700 Twin.

Got it home and used it at first to take bluejay back to the blind and man, the power it had with 2 of on it was unreal, bluejay was holding on for dear life!!    Then I started plowing with it and you couldn't stop it.  Well there was a clunking I noticed and it was hard shifting and then I was getting the dreaded E when in gears which means a problem. And then while plowing it would not go into gear and then the shifter went to low range and then no resistance at all on the shifter it flopped from High to Park.  Something let go in the tranny I figured and that was my clunk.

Checked on new Tranny $1,500.00    Used on ebay $600.00 with no guarentee what condition they were in.  My mechanic came and got it from and expected the worst.  He brought it back last night and I asked how much for repairs and almost well over when he said $60.00.  He said an aluminum bracket wore out and the hole elongated so that is why it was hard shifting at first and then it just let go altogether.  And the clunk is a U-Joint that he said I may as well plow with and replace when I get ready for trail riding in the spring.  Was I one happy camper!! Thought I just made a huge purchase just to turn around and dump money into it.  That is usually how my luck goes.  I will try and get some pics on here of my new ATV.  I know bluejay has a picture or two of it also.

I think you made a wise decision with the 700 also. Especially with a plow! Change the belt once a season, and make SURE you are getting one for a 700, and NOT for a 500. That quad will last you for a long time. I always use the K&N oil filters, they make it much easier to change, with the socket head on them, not to mention that you only change the oil once a season usually. The Polaris oil is 0W40, that is what is recommended, but the reasoning for that was that the people out in Alaska and so fourth had trouble with the lower end bearings when they started them. So, I ALWAYS run 10W 40 in all Polaris's. Unless someone leaves theirs outside, in the winter. Any other info you might want, feel free to ask. Polaris trail machines are 90% of what I usually work on, and I am pretty knowlegable with them.

Thanks Todd.

Just so everyone knows too, Todd races and repairs ATV's so he is a wealth of knowledge and will be more then happy to answer all questions you have.  Hey Todd I will even created a ATV board on the forums here if ya want.

Uhhh, I might be signing up for more than I bargained for. I am NOT licensed with any certification. BUT I do work on everyone's fourwheelers, and any small gasoline engine that people who know me, cannot fix themselves. I just changed a snowblower belt for a friend from school, and I tried to talk him into changing it himself. But he didn't wanna mess with it. I by no means know everything about small engines, but I never, take ANY of my quads or dirtbikes to a shop. I turned a 1997 Polaris Scrambler 4x4, into a 7 back to back top 3 trophy holder quad, in the improved stock class with 500 foot grass drags. Then I skipped a race, without a trophy from a redlight, and pulled 3 more in a row. JUST sayin LOL I beat decked out banshees, 450R's YFZ 450's etc. in the improved class. Now, I need to quit tooting my own horn. LOLOl

The best mechanics I have ever had are backyard, no certifications gear heads!!  They usually know way more then certified mechanics do about fixing stuff.

I tend to agree. Alot of mechanics treat working on stuff as a job after a while, and not each individual accomplishment. I love the fact that someone brings me something that is "broken" that they cannot fix themselves. Then after we talked about prices, parts etc. I call them up, and it's fixed. So it comes in broke, and leaves fixed, and I done it all by myself. I have honestly NEVER had ANYTHING leave my garage still not running. And I honestly think that is an accomplishment in itself. I work on chainsaws, trucks, cars, quads, weedeaters, lawnmowers, trailers, etc. etc. I like welding almost as much as I do wrenching. But I guess when ur not booksmart, like I KNOW I'm not, it kinda comes with the territory.

TG, Tell your mechanic we've got a 2011 Challenger that wont start, battery is good, starter is good. Turn the key, and nothing........

Quoted from Dana

TG, Tell your mechanic we've got a 2011 Challenger that wont start, battery is good, starter is good. Turn the key, and nothing........

just needs ME SITTING BEHIND THE WHEEL......

and if you HAD bought a lemon, YOU WOULD NEVER AGAIN hear a phrase like GET A 4WD...AND YOU KNOW IT..LMSAO

Try the neutral safety switch. Wiggle the steering wheel, side to side. Then push the break pedal a few times. Wiggle the gear selctor. Thne if still nothing, check the battery terminal connections. If they are all good. Pop the fuse panel cover, under the hood. Find the highest amperage fuse on it, it will say MAIN, or similar, have it checked at Autozone, or similar, or just buy a new one.

Try the neutral safety switch. Wiggle the steering wheel, side to side. Then push the break pedal a few times. Wiggle the gear selctor. Thne if still nothing, check the battery terminal connections. If they are all good. Pop the fuse panel cover, under the hood. Find the highest amperage fuse on it, it will say MAIN, or similar, have it checked at Autozone, or similar, or just buy a new one.

When you say it won't do anything, I'm assuming that means, no headlights, no radio, or anything. If this is the case, try the 3 things listed earlier. If still nothing, unfortunately it is probably the ECU. in otherwords, the computer, so, it needs to go in the shop. Also, b4 I forget check the ground battery terminal, the end, that mounts to the engine block, or bracket, and check for tightness, and or corrosion. It HAS to be electrical. If the headlights and such won't come on, the starter is definately not the issue. Also when you say you checked the battery, make sure you are testing it with a capable LOAD TESTER, not just an amp meter. It should read 12.8 with a fluke, but under load, is the real test, especially if it is cold outside.

Well..... Now I'm REALLY curious. Also another little trick, since it's electrical. Leave the driver's door open, or the headlight switch on. Start wiggling wires from the battery etc. If you hear the ding of the door dinger, or the lights come on, then ur definately on the right track. Something probably came loose. and just needs tightened.

Quad, Dana is a Dodge parts and service director....can't imagine HAVING TO SAY THAT OUT LOUD.....just kidding Dana....

I made the post just to be a smart azzz

I knew what was wrong with it when it came off the tow truck. It needed a TIPM (Totally integrated power module),,,,,also known as a wireless controller. If the vehicle cant read the key, it wont do a thing.
The wonderfull world of electronics I hope I live long enough to tell a customer
"yep, we've got your hovercraft all aligned, and ready to go"